How
to pick the right carabiner
·
Oval, D, pear or asymmetrical?
·
Straight, bent or wire gate?
·
Locking or non-locking?
·
Keylock or hook-and-nose closure?
With
so many choices out there, picking the right carabiner is not always a simple
decision. But you can’t go climbing without them. They are indispensible for so
many critical chores:
·
Clipping into your rope
·
Clipping your rope to a piece of protection
·
Attaching gear to your harness
The
decision on what to buy depends mainly on the intended use. You also need to be
sure you are using each one correctly for the task at hand.
If
you are confused about what type of biners you need to populate your personal
rack, here’s a quick guide to what you need to know to navigate the potentially
complex waters of carabiner shopping.
Shape
Carbiners
come in four general shapes: oval, pear, D or asymmetrical D. What’s the
difference?
1.
The traditional oval
Invented
in the early 1900s by Otto Herzog, the oval carabiner is still used today.
The
pros of an oval biner are:
·
They are often more affordable
·
They can hold more gear than D shaped biners
·
Two can be used in place of a locking biner if set up
correctly
·
Their symmetrical shape allows them to be used for a
carabiner-brake rappel
·
They are great for aid climbing because they centre the load
at their curve, helping to stop runners from shifting under load
The
drawbacks to oval biners are:
·
They are not as strong as the other shapes because, under
load, the force is applied equally to the spine and gate
·
They can be heavier
·
Their symmetrical shape can make them harder to handle
2.
The dutiful D
The
next phase in the evolution of the modern carabiner is the D. It’s a key tool
in every climber’s rack. Because its shape forces load to the spine it is
stronger and can be made lighter than the oval. Its shape also makes it easier
to clip into.
3.
The asymmetrical or offset D
Lighter
because they are slightly smaller and narrower at one end, asymmetrical Ds are
the go-to biners for many modern climbers.
They tend to have larger gate openings, making clipping and racking even
easier. The drawback for some is the more limited space within the D.
Modern
asymmetrical Ds come with all kinds of ergonomic enhancements to enhance
clip-ability.
4.
The hitchable pear
Pear
shaped carabiners are generally reserved for belaying. They can be used with a belay
device, but they also allow a climber to belay with a simple munter hitch. Sometimes called an HMS carabinrer, short for
the German word Halbmastwurfsicherung,
which means munter hitch belay, a pear shaped biner is a good back-up in case
you find yourself without a belay device.
Gate
Carabiner
gates can be:
·
Solid or wire (gate type)
·
Bent or straight (gate design)
They
also come with two different closure mechanisms:
·
notched or keylock
Why
all the choices?
1.
Gate type
Solid
gates are the most common type of carabiner gate. They are constructed of metal
tubing and standard on all locking carabiners. A spring mechanism is used to
snap them shut.
Wire
gates are made of a loop of stainless steel wire. While they may look less
strong than solid gates, the converse is actually the case. Wire gates are:
·
lighter
·
as strong or stronger
·
potentially safer
than solid gates.
Why?
Due to the low weight of the gate, they are less likely to flutter or vibrate
open during a fall. Wire gates are also less likely to freeze up in winter or
become jammed with mud, dirt or ice.
2.
Gate design
Straight
gates are the standard. They offer up lots of functionality whether you are
using them to clip into protection or a bolt, or on a quickdraw.
Bent
gates are designed to make clipping easier. While the shape of the gate does
not affect its strength, bent gate carabiners should only be used to clip into
your rope because they can unclip more easily from protection or bolts. This
practice also ensures that you don’t use a carabiner that’s been scarred by a
metal hangar on your rope, which can damage it.
3. Gate closure
The
traditional gate closure is a simple notch in the nose that hooks into a pin on
the gate. While this is a strong, reliable gate closure type, there can be a
problem with the notch hooking onto things - a bolt hanger, stopper wire or
sling for example.
The
solution is what’s known as a keylock closure.
A keylock closure gate essentially transfers the task of “hooking” the
nose and gate together to the gate. The
nose has a key shape that’s matched up to a corresponding keyhole in the gate,
providing a clean design and eliminating the problem of nosehooking.
Climb safely
The strength of a carabiner is measured in kiloNewtons (kN)
– the force of mass x acceleration. One kiloNewton is approximately 225 lbs. of
force. But this strength rating assumes the carabiner is being used properly.
Here are a few tips to make sure you use your correctly:
- Check
the gate’s action every time you use it. It should open and close easily.
- Make
sure the nose and hinge, or keylock are not compromised or obstructed.
- Never
let your rope run against the sleeve of a locking carabiner.
- Make
sure loads are only placed along the major axis. Loads placed on the
shorter axis can cause the device to fail in a fall.
- Remember
that your carabiner’s strength is more than halved if the gate is open.
- Avoid
any non-locking carabiner set-ups that allow a rope to cross back to open
a gate.
- Use
a locking carabiner at crucial points.
- Always
make sure your locking carabiner is secure before you use it.
Written & Researched
By Wendy Niven
